Checked content

File:Shallow water wave.gif

Shallow_water_wave.gif ‎(466 × 70 pixels, file size: 1.29 MB, MIME type: image/gif, looped, 141 frames, 11 s)

Summary

Description
English: Stokes drift in shallow water waves, with a wave length much longer than the water depth.

Description of the animation:
The red circles are the present positions of massless particles, moving with the flow velocity. The light-blue line gives the path of these particles, and the light-blue circles the particle position after each wave period. The white dots are fluid particles, also followed in time. In the case shown here, the mean Eulerian horizontal velocity below the wave trough is zero.

Observe that the wave period, experienced by a fluid particle near the free surface, is different from the wave period at a fixed horizontal position (as indicated by the light-blue circles). This is due to the Doppler shift.
Deutsch: Stokes Drift in Flachwasserwellen mit einer viel größeren Wellenlänge als der Wassertiefe.
Beschreibung der Animation:

Die roten Punkte bezeichnen die augenblicklichen Positionen der masselosen Teilchen, die sich mit der Strömungsgeschwindigkeit bewegen. Die hellblaue Linie ist die Bahnlinie dieser Teilchen und die hellblauen Punkte bezeichnen die Partikelpositionen nach jeder Wellenperiode. Die weißen Punkte sind gleichzeitig bewegte Flüssigkeitsteilchen. Im gezeigten Fall ist die mittlere horizontale Euler-Geschwindigkeit unter dem Wellental Null.

Man beachte, dass sich die Wellenperiode der Flüsigkeitsteilchen nahe der freien Oberfläche von derjenigen bezüglich einer festen Position (bezeichnet durch die hellblauen Punkte) unterscheidet. Dies ist auf die Doppler-Verschiebung zurückzuführen.
Español: Deriva de Stokes, en olas de aguas poco profundas, con una longitud de onda mucho más larga que la profundidad del agua.
Descripción de la animación:
Los círculos rojos son las posiciones actuales de las partículas sin masa, moviéndose con la velocidad del flujo. La línea de color azul claro le da la trayectoria de estas partículas, y los círculos de colour azul claro de la posición de la partícula después de cada periodo de la ola. Los puntos blancos son las partículas del fluido, también seguidos en el tiempo. En el caso que se muestra aquí, la velocidad media euleriano horizontal debajo de la cubeta de ondas es cero.
Observe que el período de la onda, experimentada por una partícula de fluido cerca de la superficie libre, es diferente del período de onda en una posición horizontal fija (como se indica por los círculos de luz azul). Esto es debido a la desviación Doppler.
Date 12 January 2008
Source Own work
Author Kraaiennest
Matlab Logo.png
 This chart was created with MATLAB.

Licensing

I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby publish it under the following licenses:
GNU head Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License, Version 1.2 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation; with no Invariant Sections, no Front-Cover Texts, and no Back-Cover Texts. A copy of the license is included in the section entitled GNU Free Documentation License.

w:en:Creative Commons
attribution share alike		 This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported, 2.5 Generic, 2.0 Generic and 1.0 Generic license.
You are free:
  • to share – to copy, distribute and transmit the work
  • to remix – to adapt the work
Under the following conditions:
  • attribution – You must attribute the work in the manner specified by the author or licensor (but not in any way that suggests that they endorse you or your use of the work).
  • share alike – If you alter, transform, or build upon this work, you may distribute the resulting work only under the same or similar license to this one.
You may select the license of your choice.
The following pages on Schools Wikipedia link to this image (list may be incomplete):

Find out about Schools Wikipedia

All five editions of Schools Wikipedia were compiled by SOS Children's Villages. SOS Children's Villages works in 133 countries and territories across the globe, helps more than 62,000 children, and reaches over 2 million people in total. We have helped children in Africa for many years - you can help too...